Succulent Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and So Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on Unesco Gastronomy List.

Biryani cooking via the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover tightly sealed with a paste of flour.

Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.

A Global Honor

In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".

The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.

A City Defined by Food

The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound devotion for food.

"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Tender kebabs as a dish
Lucknow is celebrated for its succulent kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert Makkhan Malai
The city offers special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a special frothy dessert, during winter months.

Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops

Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.

In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is noted for its creamy masala chai.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.

On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.

A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.

David Shannon
David Shannon

A film critic and entertainment journalist with over a decade of experience covering Hollywood and indie cinema.